Prevent facial volume loss with topical products

Decreased volume in temples, cheeks, and the eyes is a large contributor to facial aging.  Although loss of volume due to decreased fat pads and bone remodeling is inevitable, using topical products that protect existing volume, prevent skin atrophy, and restore the epidermal and dermal matrix volume should be included in luminous aging skin care.

 Dermatologist Jennifer Linder writes in the  May 2014 issue of Skin Inc. magazine, “Although minimally invasive injectables are the gold standard once adipose tissue and bone mass have been lost, there are many proven ingredients and product categories that can be added to a client’s daily regimen to help preserve, maintain and increase the facial volume of the skin”.  She writes that facial volume loss occurs from the breakdown of skin components such as collagen and elastin as a result of time and genetics and exasperated by environmental factors like sun exposure and free radicals (which are avoidable).

Dr. Linder advocates using sunscreen and antioxidants to prevent and protect from facial volume loss.  She writes, “The human body does have its own internal free radical-fighting system, but the daily use of topically applied antioxidants significantly improves the level of protection provided to the dermis, thereby reducing the loss of facial volume. There are three distinct categories of antioxidants, although some function in multiple categories. Primary antioxidants donate electrons to free radicals, rendering them harmless; secondary antioxidants chelate metal ions; and co-antioxidants facilitate the action of other antioxidants. Below are some key antioxidants to add into the regimens of facial volume loss clients.

  • Primary antioxidants—L-ascorbic acid, resveratrol, tea polyphenols, vitamin E, glutathione, silybin, ferulic acid, idebenone and coffea arabica extract
  • Secondary antioxidants—L-ascorbic acid, silybin, caffeine and resveratrol
  • Co-antioxidants—L-ascorbic acid, vitamin E and glutathione

L-ascorbic acid, the bioavailable form of vitamin C, activates and stabilizes procollagen mRNA, leading to collagen deposition.  Only L-ascorbic acid provides the needed anti-aging activity crucial to building facial volume.”

She notes these antioxidant ingredients prevent dermal matrix break down valuable to fight facial volume loss.

  • Aloe vera
  • Beta-carotene
  • Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)
  • L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C)
  • Resveratrol
  • Retinoids
  • Soy isoflavones
  • Vitamin E

She also lists peptides as an important ingredient category for building the dermal matrix to maximize youth.  “A peptide is a compound consisting of two or more amino acids, which are the building blocks of proteins. Peptides act as transmitters from the brain to the body, telling the muscles and nerves to perform specific functions. There are multiple peptides available that will achieve different results when used topically. Those that trigger the deposition of dermal components are the most critical to a regimen designed to build facial volume, and include the following.

  • Palmitoyl tripeptide-38—Stimulates the production of collagen I, III and IV; fibronectin; hyaluronic acid; laminin-5; and heat shock protein 47 (HSP47), a chaperone protein that ensures these other important matrix components successfully reach maturity.
  • Palmitoyl tripeptide-5—Increases collagen deposition.
  • Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7—Improves skin firmness and elasticity.
  • Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4—Increases collagen I and IV.
  • Palmitoyl oligopeptide—Stimulates collagen production.
  • Palmitoyl oligopeptide-palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7—Stimulates the production of multiple ECM components.”

Retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinoic acid are proven to stimulate dermal collagen and elastin production.  Dr. Linder states, “Additionally, retinoids are thought to be one of the only topical ingredients that encourage the proliferation of elastin.”  She notes that these are time-tested topical ingredients an individual can utilize to delay the needle (and knife).

I personally love Skinceuticals C E Ferulic antioxidant serum for day and have recently started using Skinceuticals Resveratrol B E for night.  I also like the Eminence Organics hyaluronic acid serum and although I haven’t tried it, they recently introduced an impressive peptide cream.

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Facial filler can cause permanent vision loss

The cherry red spot of central retinal artery occlusion.

A study published online March 27 in JAMA Ophthalmology reports that facial filler injections can lead to irreversible and severe vision loss due to various types of blockages in the artery of the eye that nourishes the retina.  Different degrees of occlusions are associated with the kind of filler used and patients who received autologous-fat injections were the likely to have the most severe adverse outcomes.  A report published on March 6 2014 in  JAMA Ophthalmology by Dr. Richard Roe from Retina-Vitreous Associates Medical Group in Los Angeles investigates permanent blindness and vision impairment in patients who had forehead injections with three different types of fillers.  He tells Reuters Health by email that “given the dramatic rise in cosmetic facial filler injections over the past decade it is not surprising that we are seeing more reports of complications,” and that  “these results only reinforce the fact that these cosmetic procedures are not without risk and that blindness, though likely a very small risk, should still be discussed as a possibility during the informed consent process.”

 

Botulinum toxin injections improve depression

Link to Innate Beauty website

At the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) 72nd Annual Meeting, presented March 22, 2014, clinical associate professor of psychiatry at the University of Texas Southwestern in Austin and Allergan consultant (makers of Botox), Michelle Magid, MD presented research suggesting botox (botulinum toxin) injections improved symptoms of depression, even after the forehead wrinkles returned.  The researchers were encouraged by this particular finding, suggesting that the anti-depressant effect isn’t just related to the cosmetic improvement of erasing wrinkles.  Skeptics point out that although the study is interesting, the results are complicated because the subjects were able to see the cosmetic improvement from the botox injections.

Dr. Magid explained to Medscape Medical News that two possible reasons exist for the improvement in depressive symptoms.  “The first is that the botulinum injections made it difficult for the subjects to frown. If individuals smile more and frown less, they are likely to have better social experiences, which could lift mood. The second possibility, favored by Dr. Magid, is a biologic explanation. MRI studies have shown that when people are unable to make angry facial expressions because of botulinum injections to the glabellar region, there is less activity in the amygdala than expected. Such a connection could be mediated by the trigeminal nerve, which links the glabellar region to the brain stem and amygdala and is the control center of anxiety, trauma, and the heightened fear response. If a person can’t frown, the brain does not register a frown, and the amygdala does not get the trigger that the person is upset”.  It is interesting to note that patients with depression and anxiety were affected more significantly than those with strictly melancholic depression.  Read the entire article written by Jim Kling for Medscape Medical News here.

 

Look good…feel better

Look Good Feel Better

I’m excited to become a certified provider for the Look Good…Feel Better program.  Look Good…Feel Better is the free, global program that helps women address the appearance-related side effects of cancer treatment.  Serving over 700,000 women and supported by 14,000 volunteers, it’s a safe place to find support, nurture hope, take control, inspire courage, gain confidence, and lift spirits.

Check out this video:

Facial rejuvenation with microneedling

dermapenDemoPageSkin

According to dermatologist, Sabine Zenker, microneedling is an effective facial treatment for increasing collagen production and serum penetration by producing micro-incisions in the skin’s dermis.  As an alternative to laser treatments and chemical peels, the procedure is increasing in popularity for skin rejuvenation and treatment of facial scars.  All skin types and colors can benefit from the treatments as there is no risk for scarring, low risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and no heat occurs during the session.  Because the incisions close 10-15 minutes after treatment, there is also a low risk of infection.  This is awesome news for us with acne scars, wrinkles, and photodamaged skin.

Drug successfully reduces double chin

vial-needleArthur W. Perry, MD, FACS states that “liposuction of the neck and jowls is clinically one of the most rewarding procedures in aesthetic surgery. With a short, low-risk, relatively inexpensive procedure, patients can achieve a dramatic change in their appearance. With recent technical advances, the results achieved with liposuction can, in many patients, rival those achieved with a facelift”.  Now the same results can be achieved with even less risk and hopefully less cost than lipo.

According to the September 17, 2013 Medscape, the experimental injectable drug, ATX-101, proved to be effective in reducing double chins in 1000 patients.  If the injectable is approved, Kythera Biopharmacueuticals would produce the first drug that would offer an alternative to liposuction.  The company states that common adverse events could include swelling, pain, bruising, numbness and redness.

 

Women love a faux-glow

Photo from Beauty Company

The Beauty Company  released its “Beauty by the Numbers” series #5 focusing on sunless tanning statistics and found that 99% of respondents to their survey had used sunless tanners in the past and 92% had used a sunless tanning product within the last 6 months and 59% said they used tanners within 3 months of the survey.  The top product mentioned is from Jergens, my favorite, for least offensive smell, best color, and minimal streaks.