Decreased volume in temples, cheeks, and the eyes is a large contributor to facial aging. Although loss of volume due to decreased fat pads and bone remodeling is inevitable, using topical products that protect existing volume, prevent skin atrophy, and restore the epidermal and dermal matrix volume should be included in luminous aging skin care.
Dermatologist Jennifer Linder writes in the May 2014 issue of Skin Inc. magazine, “Although minimally invasive injectables are the gold standard once adipose tissue and bone mass have been lost, there are many proven ingredients and product categories that can be added to a client’s daily regimen to help preserve, maintain and increase the facial volume of the skin”. She writes that facial volume loss occurs from the breakdown of skin components such as collagen and elastin as a result of time and genetics and exasperated by environmental factors like sun exposure and free radicals (which are avoidable).
Dr. Linder advocates using sunscreen and antioxidants to prevent and protect from facial volume loss. She writes, “The human body does have its own internal free radical-fighting system, but the daily use of topically applied antioxidants significantly improves the level of protection provided to the dermis, thereby reducing the loss of facial volume. There are three distinct categories of antioxidants, although some function in multiple categories. Primary antioxidants donate electrons to free radicals, rendering them harmless; secondary antioxidants chelate metal ions; and co-antioxidants facilitate the action of other antioxidants. Below are some key antioxidants to add into the regimens of facial volume loss clients.
- Primary antioxidants—L-ascorbic acid, resveratrol, tea polyphenols, vitamin E, glutathione, silybin, ferulic acid, idebenone and coffea arabica extract
- Secondary antioxidants—L-ascorbic acid, silybin, caffeine and resveratrol
- Co-antioxidants—L-ascorbic acid, vitamin E and glutathione
L-ascorbic acid, the bioavailable form of vitamin C, activates and stabilizes procollagen mRNA, leading to collagen deposition. Only L-ascorbic acid provides the needed anti-aging activity crucial to building facial volume.”
She notes these antioxidant ingredients prevent dermal matrix break down valuable to fight facial volume loss.
- Aloe vera
- Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)
- L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C)
- Soy isoflavones
- Vitamin E
She also lists peptides as an important ingredient category for building the dermal matrix to maximize youth. “A peptide is a compound consisting of two or more amino acids, which are the building blocks of proteins. Peptides act as transmitters from the brain to the body, telling the muscles and nerves to perform specific functions. There are multiple peptides available that will achieve different results when used topically. Those that trigger the deposition of dermal components are the most critical to a regimen designed to build facial volume, and include the following.
- Palmitoyl tripeptide-38—Stimulates the production of collagen I, III and IV; fibronectin; hyaluronic acid; laminin-5; and heat shock protein 47 (HSP47), a chaperone protein that ensures these other important matrix components successfully reach maturity.
- Palmitoyl tripeptide-5—Increases collagen deposition.
- Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7—Improves skin firmness and elasticity.
- Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4—Increases collagen I and IV.
- Palmitoyl oligopeptide—Stimulates collagen production.
- Palmitoyl oligopeptide-palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7—Stimulates the production of multiple ECM components.”
Retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinoic acid are proven to stimulate dermal collagen and elastin production. Dr. Linder states, “Additionally, retinoids are thought to be one of the only topical ingredients that encourage the proliferation of elastin.” She notes that these are time-tested topical ingredients an individual can utilize to delay the needle (and knife).
I personally love Skinceuticals C E Ferulic antioxidant serum for day and have recently started using Skinceuticals Resveratrol B E for night. I also like the Eminence Organics hyaluronic acid serum and although I haven’t tried it, they recently introduced an impressive peptide cream.