Prevent facial volume loss with topical products

Decreased volume in temples, cheeks, and the eyes is a large contributor to facial aging.  Although loss of volume due to decreased fat pads and bone remodeling is inevitable, using topical products that protect existing volume, prevent skin atrophy, and restore the epidermal and dermal matrix volume should be included in luminous aging skin care.

 Dermatologist Jennifer Linder writes in the  May 2014 issue of Skin Inc. magazine, “Although minimally invasive injectables are the gold standard once adipose tissue and bone mass have been lost, there are many proven ingredients and product categories that can be added to a client’s daily regimen to help preserve, maintain and increase the facial volume of the skin”.  She writes that facial volume loss occurs from the breakdown of skin components such as collagen and elastin as a result of time and genetics and exasperated by environmental factors like sun exposure and free radicals (which are avoidable).

Dr. Linder advocates using sunscreen and antioxidants to prevent and protect from facial volume loss.  She writes, “The human body does have its own internal free radical-fighting system, but the daily use of topically applied antioxidants significantly improves the level of protection provided to the dermis, thereby reducing the loss of facial volume. There are three distinct categories of antioxidants, although some function in multiple categories. Primary antioxidants donate electrons to free radicals, rendering them harmless; secondary antioxidants chelate metal ions; and co-antioxidants facilitate the action of other antioxidants. Below are some key antioxidants to add into the regimens of facial volume loss clients.

  • Primary antioxidants—L-ascorbic acid, resveratrol, tea polyphenols, vitamin E, glutathione, silybin, ferulic acid, idebenone and coffea arabica extract
  • Secondary antioxidants—L-ascorbic acid, silybin, caffeine and resveratrol
  • Co-antioxidants—L-ascorbic acid, vitamin E and glutathione

L-ascorbic acid, the bioavailable form of vitamin C, activates and stabilizes procollagen mRNA, leading to collagen deposition.  Only L-ascorbic acid provides the needed anti-aging activity crucial to building facial volume.”

She notes these antioxidant ingredients prevent dermal matrix break down valuable to fight facial volume loss.

  • Aloe vera
  • Beta-carotene
  • Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)
  • L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C)
  • Resveratrol
  • Retinoids
  • Soy isoflavones
  • Vitamin E

She also lists peptides as an important ingredient category for building the dermal matrix to maximize youth.  “A peptide is a compound consisting of two or more amino acids, which are the building blocks of proteins. Peptides act as transmitters from the brain to the body, telling the muscles and nerves to perform specific functions. There are multiple peptides available that will achieve different results when used topically. Those that trigger the deposition of dermal components are the most critical to a regimen designed to build facial volume, and include the following.

  • Palmitoyl tripeptide-38—Stimulates the production of collagen I, III and IV; fibronectin; hyaluronic acid; laminin-5; and heat shock protein 47 (HSP47), a chaperone protein that ensures these other important matrix components successfully reach maturity.
  • Palmitoyl tripeptide-5—Increases collagen deposition.
  • Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7—Improves skin firmness and elasticity.
  • Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4—Increases collagen I and IV.
  • Palmitoyl oligopeptide—Stimulates collagen production.
  • Palmitoyl oligopeptide-palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7—Stimulates the production of multiple ECM components.”

Retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinoic acid are proven to stimulate dermal collagen and elastin production.  Dr. Linder states, “Additionally, retinoids are thought to be one of the only topical ingredients that encourage the proliferation of elastin.”  She notes that these are time-tested topical ingredients an individual can utilize to delay the needle (and knife).

I personally love Skinceuticals C E Ferulic antioxidant serum for day and have recently started using Skinceuticals Resveratrol B E for night.  I also like the Eminence Organics hyaluronic acid serum and although I haven’t tried it, they recently introduced an impressive peptide cream.


Product review: Skinceuticals A.G.E. Eye Complex and A.G.E. Interrupter

This video explains how the products reverse signs of aging caused by glycation in the skin.  I bought my products from Viva Day Spa as a recommendation for a night cream by an aesthetician.  I’ve used Skinceuaticals products for over 10 years and have noticed the benefits of using their antioxidant serums to give my skin a healthy glow and protect my face and neck when I’m exercising outside.  So I trust the company and it’s products.  I know they work for me if I  use them regularly.  From the list of ingredients, it looks like Proxylane is the super-star key contributor in that it stimulates the synthesis of the GAGs (glycosaminoglycans) which are “the essential molecules responsible for holding water and nutrients in the skin, increases skin elasticity and thickness, stimulates collagen synthesis, and boosts skin moisture levels.”

The creams are pricey, but a little goes a long way and just a pea-size of the product will cover your face and upper neck.  I also cover my decollate, so use a bit more.  It”s not greasy and get’s absorbed right away.  If my skin seems more dehydrated than normal, I put another cream or oil on top for extra emollience.  I haven’t really noticed the decrease of under-eye circles from the eye cream, but they are stubborn and hereditary.

I wanted to review this product because as I enter my mid-40’s, I’m curious about preventing further skin damage and didn’t really understand the glycation process.  According to Kris Campbell in the November 2013 issue of Skin Inc. magazine, “if there is too much sugar in the body, protein molecules can cross-link with sugar molecules.  Once this cross-linking process has occurred, the new sugar proteins are called advanced glycation end products (AGEs). The human body does not recognize AGEs as normal, and will produce antibodies that cause inflammation in the skin.”  She writes, that when AGE’s are formed, they attack the collagen and elastin in the dermal layer of the skin, compromising the skin’s structure.  Wrinkling and sagging; weakened elastin and collagen; and a reduced ability for skin to quickly rehabilitate are the result.  This cellular turnover slow-down presents as a hollowed-out appearance due to fat redistribution.

Scary thing is, she says that “the more sugar you eat, whether processed or natural, the more AGEs are produced”.  Yikes! It’s hard enough to not eat that cookie, but the point is to not overload on carbs.  Truthfully, I won’t know if this product really works until I can say that I don’t need injectable fillers to replace future volume loss.  In the meantime, I’ll rely on products to age luminously.